How long has Stone-Coated Steel roofing been around?

Stone-coated steel roofing occurred during World War II when tar and sand were used to cover galvanized steel bunkers. After the war, the practice was commercialized and the first roofs were produced. Stone coated steel roofs have been protecting buildings for close to 50 years, but the product technology today bears little resemblance to early practices due to advances in the chemistry of coatings.

Can you walk on a steel roof?

Yes. Some care must be exercised while walking on the roof, but note that roofers walk all over the tiles during the installation process.

Is a stone-coated steel roof noisy in the rain?

No. The dead air space between the steel roofing panel and the underlayment minimize exterior noise even in a rainstorm. The stone-coating also reduces the noise of the rain when it hits the tiles.

How will a Metrotile roof stand up to extreme weather?

A Metrotile roof can withstand decades of abuse from extreme weather conditions, including wind, heat, humidity, and precipitation. Metrotile has many international tests reports and actual field results confirming their products are earthquake, fire and freeze/thaw resistant and can withstand hurricane-forced winds of up to 193kph. With a minimal amount of periodic maintenance, Metrotile’s will provide years of lasting performance.

How do the granules stay bonded to the steel?

An acrylic primer is applied to the Zincalume coated steel substrate by the steel mill. Graded, non-oiled stone granules are then embedded in a thick UV resistant water base acrylic polymer. A final layer of acrylic over-glaze is applied on top of the stone before the tiles are cured in an oven at a temperature of 120 degrees.

Does the colour fade?

The history of Metrotile’s products demonstrates that fading is not a problem. Metrotile uses either naturally coloured or ceramic coated stone granules on their tiles. The natural stone cannot fade and the ceramic coated stone is manufactured with the highest quality pigments and fired at temperatures above 700 deg Celsius. Over time, a slight change in colour may occur due to settling of airborne contaminants. However periodic rain or washing the roof with a garden hose will keep the roof looking new.

I am concerned about the environment. Is the roofing material recyclable?

Yes, over sixty percent of most metal roofing materials are recyclable. Other roofing products are made of non-recyclable material. 

Is a steel roof fire safe?

Steel roofing is classified as a non-combustible roofing material (Class A). In new construction and in many re-roofing applications the metal roofing system is a Class A non-combustible roof assembly. That means it is the most resistant to fire.

What about energy efficiency?

Metal roofs have a high reflectivity, which contributes to the overall energy efficiency of your home.

Can I drink water from my roof?

Yes, rainwater collected from Metrotile roofs is safe to consume. After your new roof has been installed you need to wait for two good rainfalls before beginning collection.

Installation

1. Batten Spacing

A 75x25mm batten is placed directly behind the fascia around the entire roof, which is to support the Starter Strip (refer to #4 for Starter Strip installation).

Then the next batten is placed 140mm from the outside edge of the fascia material to the front edge of the batten.  Battens are then placed every 255mm from the front edge of each batten continuing up the roof. The set out can be done using a setout rod, which is made from a 50x25mm batten or similar thickness material.  Measure every 255mm up the setout rod and saw notches in the material, making sure the notches are accurate and that the bottom of the notch is square to the rod.  The rod is then placed on the rafter and nails are placed in everynotch so that you have a series of nails at 255mm centres running up each rafter.

2. Batten Installation

Use 150x25mm timber battens with rafter centres no greater than 900mm.  Place battens parallel on either side of all hip and ridgelines using the same 150x25mm battens.  Place the battens on the setout nails mitring each batten into the hip/ridge and valley battens (paper layed under battens must be done before the battens are nailed).  Make sure joining battens are centred on the rafter.  Using 75x3.15mm steel nails, nail 2 nails in each batten over every rafter.

3. Plywood Constructions (Alternative to batten use)

The plywood must be a minimum thickness of 9mm for 450mm rafter centres and 15mm for 900mm rafter centres.  Place the Starter Strip as per below instructions.

4. Starter Strip Installation

Overhang each starter strip 40mm past the outside edge of the fascia ensuring that each valley and hip line join is mitered.  The Starter strip must be lapped no less than 50mm over each other. Note - it is very important that the starter strips are overhanging the fascia evenly as this determines the line of each course.  If these are not even the tiles will run out of line up the roof.  Fix the starter Strips in place with either 30x2.8mm galvanised nails or 38mm stainless steel staples at 300mm centres.  In very high  wind zones starter strips must be screwed every 200mm.

5. Paper / Underlay Installation

Self-supporting breather type building paper must be used if it is being installed under battens. Standard breather type building paper can be used if the underlay is being layed on top of plywood. Starting at the bottom, roll out the underlay horizontally across the roof, ensuring that the outside edge of the underlay is flush with the outside edge of the starter strip.  Paper the whole roof, horizontal to the fascia line ensuring that each lap is no less than 150mm.  Underlay is to be lapped over each hip and ridge line at least 150mm and lapped 50mm into valleys.  Where the roof meets a wall the underlay must be folded 50mm up all walls.

If the underlay is being placed over the plywood it is recommended that a hammer stapler be used to secure the paper before the tiles are laid.

6. Metroshingle Installation

Starting at the bottom of the roof Metroshingles are laid from right to left.  Lay the first course of shingles lapping the tile over the Starter Strip making sure the shingles are pulled up hard so that they are secured and fixed tightly.  Several courses can be layed at a time ensuring that every course is staggered differently so that a pattern is not seen in the roof.

Note: Every Metroshingle must be pushed up hard in place making sure that they are properly interlocked.  If this is not done the shingles may lay out of line. The starting and finishing shingle on each course should be cut and or bent as you go.  i.e. when starting on a hip or valley, mark, cut and nail that Metroshingle before the Metroshingle above isstarting on a hip or valley, mark, cut and nail that Metroshingle before the Metroshingle above is secured.  It is not possible to lay all the Metroshingles and then cut the hip and valleys.

7. Metroshingle Cutting

Metroshingle cuts can either be measured or placed in position over the hip, valley or gable and marked.  All Metroshingle cutting and bending can be done on the roof using the purpose built MetroShingle Guillotine & Bender sets.  Scribe the angle or position of the cut on the Metroshingle then proceed to cut along the scribed mark.  Once the Metroshingle has been cut it will be necessary to either adjust or cut the over and under-lap of the Metroshingle as these will be squashed down from the guillotine, which will prevent the Metroshingles from interlocking correctly.

8. Flashing Detail

Vertical and Side Flashings

Side flashings are positioned 20mm from the top of the roofing battens or plywood to the bottom of the side flashings.  This will allow a 10mm gap to fit the shingles under the side flashing.  All intersecting corners must be folded to ensure waterproofing.  Side Flashings must be fixed at 500mm centres using 30x2.8mm nails. Overlap side flashings 50mm onto the flashing below.

Note:Shingles must be folded up 40mm underneath all side and vertical flashings.

9. Hip / Ridge Trim

Either 20x20mm bitumen impregnated foam or a Peel & Stick waterproofing membrane must be used to cover all ridge and hip lines. As all shingles meeting the hip and ridge lines have been butted together either one of the above products will ensure waterproofing.  Except when using a vent ridge system.

Sales Order

Handling & Storages

Handling

Care should be taken when handling product to avoid damage to surface coatings. Where minor damages accur, the finishing kit should be used to repair the damage

Storage

If any products are stored outside a waterproof cover must be placed over them to keep them dry and prevent damage

Price List

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Job References